Hey there, have a question for you...just brought my first MB a 2001 E-320 Black...it was my dad's, so I knew the history and that he took pretty good care of it...as far as washing it and such..mainly at one of those full services places..that does the outside and inside....
I have been reading a little in the manuels and such...see that MB, has made a really good car...and something need special care to take care of...
Can you help me with what steps you would start with on the outside and in...kind of a virgin's guide to a new MB owner...i have a GMC truck/Harley that I wash basiclly about once a week. (harder now that we are in a drought here in NC, and can't wash at home)
thanks for the help...and look forward to hearing from you...
Can you help me with what steps you would start with on the outside and in...kind of a virgin's guide to a new MB owner...
Hi Dan, welcome to the Benzworld Detailing section of the forum. Your question is too broad in scope to answer with any detail. A suggestion would be to look at the "stickies" - posted above the regular topics. Read up on detailing there. Or, do a "search" (right corner section of the forum) on any specific topic regarding detailing.
To look at some very detailed "how to's", visit some of the top detailing web sites such as:
In general, there is nothing special to mercedes when it comes to taking good care of them. It is really up to you how much effort you want to put into it. Detailing can be a simple chore or a hobby. At a bare minimum, I would recommend treating it the way you would treat your house. For the interior, Keep the carpets vacuumed, wipe down the plastic and stuff to manage dust and dirt. For the exterior; wash it (be careful to avoid tunnel washes and anything that might swirl the paint), wax it, and protect the trim and tires. DO NOT USE ARMORAL PRODUCTS. You can't go wrong with most meguiars products.
If you are more interested into "detailing" side of things, that is opening up a big can of worms. I have really gotten into this. It can be hard work, but i find that spending some manly bonding time in the garage is good for your soul and your resale values. Also, a well detailed black mercedes is hot! If you don't have the time or desire, but you really want to treat your benz well, you might also consider taking your car to a professional detailer. Either way, if you are interested in detailing, you can get more info than you could ever possibly need at the autopia detailing forum. Autopia - Autopia Home (not that this is a bad one, it is just that autopia is 100% detailing and it is a big site)
Good luck
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Mercedes are like potato chips, you can't have just one.
Again, welcome - I'm envious, I don't even have a Benz and I'm trolling the board!
Call a guy like me, but be sure of their experience, because this is most important. Hopefully they are active on the net, and truly knowledgeable about current products, procedures, and techniques.
Also, visit detailersclub.com, because I feel they give better advice to new people, because there are a lot less people who claim to be experts but really are too embarrassed to just ask questions. Also, autopia is down tonight, maintenance.
In regards to the exterior, there are a few basics.
-Buy a microfiber wash mitt or two, use these as a body wash mitt. (I never actually use them as a "mitt" but this is the only form of the basic wash tool that I really feel gives me the most control)
-Buy another mitt for your wheels, tires, and wheel wells - along with a soft bristle handled brush if you think your wheels are a pain to clean. These also work great for grills and other tight areas like around license plates and around exhaust shrouds etc... Basically, one mitt for the car and one for the really dirty wheels.
-No car washes unless your car is so dirty, that you think even if you wash it, you will mar your paint. Only in this extremely rare case should you use a touchless, never a brush wash. Immediately after a touchless wash though, you should wax and protect your trim with UV protectants, because it strips off everything. It's like washing your car with dawn.
-Buy two buckets, one for clean, lukewarm water for rinsing the mitt after each section,
and another bucket for the soapy, lukewarm water.
-Use PH balanced car wash soap, not dawn or dish soap. Any local auto store will have it. Stay away from any soaps with additives, usually called "wash & wax," there's always some mention on the bottle.
-Wash from the top down, and if the car is really dirty, make sure to wash smaller sections than usual, and change water often. Not only will this be safer for your finish and give you peace of mind, but it will be a lot easier.
-This may not be possible, depending on the finish, but there is one amazingly easy way to cut down drying time without anything but your hose. Try this...
From the top down, use the plain flow of water direct from the hose, not the sprayer, and glide the smooth sheet of water across the panels, carefully avoiding direct water pressure on crevices and raised edges as to not splash any smaller droplets. If this is done right, most of the water will sheet off, and barely any drying will be needed. It works best after you apply an LSP, (wax/sealant) because the water will bead efficiently with this applied, and I'll get to that in a minute...
-Once this is done, you'll want to move the car under cover.
-When you do decide to hand-dry, don't press hard because cotton will mar the finish, especially black. Make sure to change towels often. If they get too wet, they will leave watermarks. If the above method works for you, you won't even have to worry about using much more than a single towel. Again, this is where a good LSP(wax/sealant) will be beneficial, because even residual wax left on the vehicle can aid in preventing scratches from even the most seemingly harmless things such as a cotton towel. As stated, they are notorious for marring and swirling paint.
-Buy some quick detailer, grab another towel or two, preferably smaller in size, and wipe down the door jambs, trunk jamb, and hood jamb. If you feel up to it, maybe even wipe the engine bay a little bit, unless it's dirty enough for a detailer to spiff it up. I say this because if it's bad enough, you don't want to go spraying stuff in there, you could damage a countless number of things, even with all the plastic engine covers these days. The only use that I really have for quick detailer spray is here, it's excellent for cleaning out these areas.
-Lastly, most waxes/Sealants are picky around water, so make sure the car is at least 80% dry before applying any kind of paint protectant. Usually there is water left between headlight housings and things like that, and that will take hours to dry, even if it's warm - so just avoid it. Directions are on the cans/bottles of your choice of wax and sealant, but there are some that aren't worth the money, so let me give you a few suggestions. OTC products that you find at any auto store usually won't cut it, but Meguiars is so-so, and can be found at auto stores. NXT tech wax is great for the beginner. It offers good protection, and it's easy to find at the store.
-BUY SOME MICROFIBER cloths, preferably without tags, but any will work. This is unquestionably the only way to remove the residual LSP immediately after application. Any other towels wil mar the finish. Microfibers, remember that. They are soft, smooth, and glorious to use. Heck, they're cheap.
There are many more nitpicky things that as a detailer I must know, but these will serve you well if you stick to them.
Like the previous user mentioned, detailing is viral, and horrendously contagious. Your really can't have someone explain it all to you, and the best thing is to hire a detailer, and hang around detailersclub.com and autopia.org. You will bring things up that have to do with your car and answers will come quickly, giving you the opportunity to try things yourself. Also, you will run into posts that you find interesting and try those things out yourself - receive feedback on your own questions, and then see things that spark more interest. It grows, rather quickly too. Just hang around, I guarantee you'll be loving every minute of the learning process because it's so gradual and individually driven.
I will typically spend 14 hours detailing a single vehicle for a client, and that's an average sedan or large coupe with the usual, moderate symptoms.
Again, I remind you, avoid most detail "shops" as many of them are just people trying to make a quick buck by hiring migrants who really don't give a hoot.
Go on the forums mentioned above if you're serious about hiring a detailer, and ask around and tell them where you are. There are enthusiasts all over. That is the key, the hobbyist and enthusiast, like myself. People that put "business" second.
Soon enough you'll be buying your products online, it's the only way to go IMO. These auto parts stores just don't cut it except in case of an emergency, and even then it's hopeless to count of them.
Where are you located?
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EuroLux:. Private Auto Detail
Portland, OR
Last edited by CharlesAFerg : 04-24-2008 at 10:24 PM.
CharlesAFerg...welcome to our forum. From what it sounds like, your experience is broad and I look forward to your participation in our discussions.
Your input is spot on in most areas, but I have to differ on a couple of points.
Firstly,
Washing from the top down is always preferred, but as I have learned recently, one should always start with the wheels, tires wheel wells and engine bay first before proceeding to the painted surfaces. The reason for this is if you wash the paint first, then proceed to the wheels and tires, you give the water on the paint time to evaporate a bit, thereby risking the possibility of water spots. If you do the wheels first, then paint, you can finish your wash on the paint and then proceed IMMEDIATELY to drying the car. This will absolutely minimize the possibility of water spotting.
Next, I have always used the 2 bucket method. But in addition to the second bucket I think that a GRIT GUARD in the soap bucket is an absolute necessity.
A microfiber wash mitt is ok as long as it is a HIGH quality microfiber. There is so much trash out there that it is hard to find a good one. Also, microfiber tends to hold grit much tighter than a dense wash quality foam pad or a wool or sheepskin type mitt or pad. These are much easier to rinse and flush the contaminants away. Recently I have used Adam's foam wash pad and their Professional Wash Pad. I have been VERY happy with the results I got from these.
Microfiber...there are a LOT of low quality microfiber products on the market. I have looked a long time to find a consistently high quality microfiber. I found this in Adam's. Their microfiber towels, pads and drying cloths are, in my opinion, the best available in today's market. But, don't take my word on this...try it for yourself. I was skeptical until I got one in my hand and now I dont ever want to be without them in my detailing cabinet. Bottom line...dont buy CHEAP microfiber towels. Remember, you get what you pay for.
Engine bays, if done properly can be washed and detailed just like any other part of the car. I always wash and detail my engine bay. When I show people my 1999 engine bay I ask them what year do they think this car is. Usually they are guessing 2005, 2006, 2007 etc, When I tell them 1999 usually their mouths hang open and I love it!!! Get a good instructional website or DVD and you can learn the little tricks that make the difference.
I agree wholeheartedly about your advice on washing soaps. However, there is a time and a place for Dawn. I use this from time to time when I want to strip the wax before a complete finish detail. Otherwise use a high quality, Ph balanced car soap. Adam's makes an exceptionally thick, very sudsy soap that I very much like.
Anyway, let me again say WELCOME!!!! and I look forward to more of your valuable input!
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"The true delight is in the finding out, rather than in the knowing." - Isaac Asimov
'99 SLK230 Sport
'00 ML320
'95 BMW 525iA (RIP)
'99 Honda Passport
You see, I tried to simplify, as he will learn these things in increments as he sits-in on this, as well as other boards around the detailing community.
Hah, I usually dry as I go, so I guess I've lost touch with all the normal people! Haha, +1 for OCD.
Also, +1 on the grit guard, they are great - but again, I hve yet to find it OTC... Frustrating.
Yes, I mentioned the use for dawn - you may have gotten lost in my 'hand-crampingly' large post.
As stated earlier, most of these specialty products can only be found online, so I tried to make the best use of what he could find OTC, that was really the overlying guideline for my advice.
These are not necessarily what I use, as a professional hobbyist, but if he sticks around he will have an even more beautiful car than myself - as I don't even have time to detail my own!
So, that's why I recommend buying all of your products online, it's the only way to go.
(Yet, if you lived in a warmer climate, I'm determined that there would be more specialized products available OTC. Even in good ol, rain-trodden Portland, OR it's quite limited, and I'm forced to shop online if I want anything of significant quality whatsoever..)
PS I see you owned a '95 525i? What happened?
Last edited by CharlesAFerg : 04-25-2008 at 10:56 AM.
Also, a well detailed black mercedes is hot!
If you don't have the time or desire, but you really want to treat your benz well, you might also consider taking your car to a professional detailer. Either way, if you are interested in detailing, you can get more info than you could ever possibly need at the autopia detailing forum. 
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