That is of no use to the poster. That covers curbing, which is NOT the case here.
I think you are mistaken. Wheel rash is much worse than clearcoat contamination, and I strongly believe he should address that issue as wheel rash and fix it properly, once and for all. You can diddle around w/ the clearcoat problem until you're blue in the fact, but ultimately he is going to have to refinish the wheel. Why not get it right the first time?
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Those alloys look like every set of wheels that have spent a few winters running in salt spray.
I don't think it was just the weights that caused that corrosion. The salt has crept under the clear and is activated every time he's in the rain.
The corrosion goes deeper and deeper.
They have to be repaired by Jayhawks method or refinished by a professional service.
If they remove the tire, they'll probably see the same corrosion at the bead.
In time those wheels will start losing air at the tire bead also... my 2cts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayhawk
I think you are mistaken. Wheel rash is much worse than clearcoat contamination, and I strongly believe he should address that issue as wheel rash and fix it properly, once and for all. You can diddle around w/ the clearcoat problem until you're blue in the fact, but ultimately he is going to have to refinish the wheel. Why not get it right the first time?
Why would he address the issue as wheel rash if its not wheel rash? That makes no sense. You cannot simply dab paint onto the wheel over the damaged clear coat here. It will just peel again!
I do agree that he is going to have to refinish the entire wheel.
No weights are applied where those pics show the corrosion. The outside edge of that alloy doesn't hold weights.
The inside of the wheel probably will have a lip where weights could be held.
I'd like to see a pic of the inside edge of that wheel.
If a lead weight was there, you'd see a lot more corrosion under the weight. The mix of lead and aluminum and salt would made for a lot of corrosion at that point.
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