someone correct me if I'm wrong because I'm not sure, but ScratchX has a lot of fillers in it?
I ask because I used it to "polish" out some scratches I had on my car(while fixing something else, I forgot my metal zip on my jacket, and was rubbing that over the paint!!!). all the scratches were all in the same spot, so they're easy to see. I used ScratchX to polish them away, and they seemed to disappear. Only issue was a few months down the track, they appeared again, but this time, they actually look worse, because there's now more scratches ON TOP OF the original scratches. Only thing I can think of is that the ScratchX, being slightly abrasive, added the new scratches and filled both the new scratches and the existing scratches, so that they disappeared. But eventually the fillers will wear out, and they will be exposed again.
I got it polished out properly by a detailer, and now the paint is perfect again
A lot of people have reported the same type of thing happening, which leads one to believe that it has fillers in it. Just search on Google and you will read similar stories of scratches 'coming back'.
I never subscribed to the theory that you need a 'scratch remover'. A good polish removes scratches...so why do you need a special product to remove scratches?
I never subscribed to the theory that you need a 'scratch remover'. A good polish removes scratches...so why do you need a special product to remove scratches?
Now you're coming around to my way of thinking.
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97' C280:
CLK wheels
H&R's
Khumo's *disclaimer* the Ajax man. Please don't try this at home.
The Flex is an excellent tool. I've used it. It boasts much more correction ability than a PC. It forces a rotation, which the PC does not. This is what helps it to correct so well.
However, my tool of choice is still a rotary. And for those on a budget, you can get a rotary for under $40.
A rotary can become a very expensive tool if you burn through the paint which isn’t hard. Not good advice to be giving casually to someone new to this stuff.
Technically, you can achieve the same correction with a PC as a Flex. However, it may take an additional application of polish and of course it takes longer. I can’t wait to justify (find an excuse for) buying a Flex. Polishing a car, and all the other steps involved, takes a lot of time if done properly. Cutting down that time significantly is well worth the $280.
The Flex is an excellent tool. I've used it. It boasts much more correction ability than a PC. It forces a rotation, which the PC does not. This is what helps it to correct so well.
However, my tool of choice is still a rotary. And for those on a budget, you can get a rotary for under $40.
Rotary is an excellent tool, my favorite indeed, but I'm constantly working on vehicles that do not require rotary compounding. Honestly, if it works even slightly better than a PC, I'd pay top dollar, particularly for a German product. My rotary is a Metabo PE12-175, wonderful torque beast. I just worked on an aircraft with it today. I love the flex, but I'm going to wait to purchase from another company, preferably Metabo.
Yes, terrible at taking pics, I know...
Friend of mine standing in the reflection of the polished section.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PolishAndWax.com
A lot of people have reported the same type of thing happening, which leads one to believe that it has fillers in it. Just search on Google and you will read similar stories of scratches 'coming back'.
I never subscribed to the theory that you need a 'scratch remover'. A good polish removes scratches...so why do you need a special product to remove scratches?
Clay fillers, possibly kaolin clay. Typical in glazes. Great for repair finishes, but obviously not for true correction. Nothing wrong with it in this sense, but if it is used in any correction product, it can be extremely decieving. The most disturbing example of this can be seen at every detail shop in my area, including the high-end dealerships. The use of highly abrasive compounds, without following up with finishing products, and then throwing some glaze to hide the holograms. Laziness at it's worst. Unfortunately, these shops charge top dollar. I wonder why I get so much business. It's a shame that many cars I work with have such thin clear coat after those shops get done with them. What's even worse is the detailers who have no idea theya re doing it, by using a compound with clay fillers in the compounds, so they don't even see the holograms to begin with. That scares me, and it's constantly tarnishing my name as a detailer, with stories of local idiots like this looming over my head.
It truly is unfortunate that there are so many people "in the field" who really only care about a quick buck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GPost
ScratchX is really good. If it doesn't work, the next step for me would be a polishing compound, like Turtle Wax polishing compound. The next step would be rubbing compound, like the Turtle Wax. Both of these come in a liquid. The next step, would be microfine sandpaper, like 1500. When the scratch is out, just reverse the products.
Obviously, some damage is better left alone as if you get though the clear coat, that is a problem. I don't think the polishing compound would go through the clearcoat. The rubbing compound would, with some hard rubbing.
I took out a fairly deep scratch with rubbing compound, but it was on white, which is easier.
No.
First, anything from turtle wax is extremely low quality.
Next, see below...
Quote:
Originally Posted by PolishAndWax.com
Just say no to compound...way too aggressive and not necessary.
Rubbing compound should be banned from the market.
Yes, and it is like this for a reason.
Rubbing compound, unlike modern machine compounds, does not break down when polished. It will give you terrible marks on your paint, regardless of your method of application.
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EuroLux:. Private Auto Detail
Portland, OR
A rotary can become a very expensive tool if you burn through the paint which isn’t hard. Not good advice to be giving casually to someone new to this stuff.
Not true as long as you use the right polish. I've watched dozens of newbies polish with rotaries for the first time and not burn through their paint.
I'm no longer a vendor on this board, otherwise I would post links to several videos that show newbies polishing successfully for the first time, as well as customer testimonials where people polished for the first time with a rotary and got excellent results.
Not true as long as you use the right polish. I've watched dozens of newbies polish with rotaries for the first time and not burn through their paint.
I'm no longer a vendor on this board, otherwise I would post links to several videos that show newbies polishing successfully for the first time, as well as customer testimonials where people polished for the first time with a rotary and got excellent results.
Quite honestly and from experiences I've had when starting off with a rotary, watch your edges. The most dangerous areas for a newbie are tight places, or edges too steep to sweep the pad across. The edge of the pad is absolutely the most dangerous part of polishing if you're new to the machine, even if everything is properly taped.
For example, polishing a on a flat surface when you hit an angle that you cannot gradually "climb" with the rotary, and glide across the groove or crevice, can be burned if the edge contacts the paint for even a fraction of a second.
Heck, even sharp edges never gave me a problem. So, above ever watching temperature and time of surface contact...
Just watch your edges.
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