Further more wet sanding will take off sections of clear coat and if you dont have the meter reader to view the depth of clear coat by section dont get it done.
What do you mean by 'sections of clear coat'? What meter reads 'depth of clear coat by section'?
Mil gauges (at least the ones I'm familair with) measure TOTAL paint on the car. That includes primer, base coat, sealer and clear coat. There is no mil gauge that I know of that can distinguish these three or four components of your total paint and certainly there are none that can tell you how many layers or coats of clear you have.
If I am wrong, please let me know the model and make of the mil gauge that does...I want one!
Also, nobody, no matter how skilled, should be wetsanding to remove swirl marks that are only viewable in the sun. That is extreme overkill.
Vehicle: Opal Black 1998 MB E320 - Signs of Life- Pearl White 1994 Q45T
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolishAndWax.com
What do you mean by 'sections of clear coat'? What meter reads 'depth of clear coat by section'?
Mil gauges (at least the ones I'm familair with) measure TOTAL paint on the car. That includes primer, base coat, sealer and clear coat. There is no mil gauge that I know of that can distinguish these three or four components of your total paint and certainly there are none that can tell you how many layers or coats of clear you have.
If I am wrong, please let me know the model and make of the mil gauge that does...I want one!
Also, nobody, no matter how skilled, should be wetsanding to remove swirl marks that are only viewable in the sun. That is extreme overkill.
Thanks for correcting me. Its a mil gauge as you mentioned. Ive seened it used. when I said sections of clear coat, i was referring to the sections which has thicker clear coat then other like curved areas. When I wet sanding my car, I did a bit of research at some body shops and they all told me what sections to watch out for and never let the sand paper touch at all. I had alot of fun doing it and my car looks 200xs better. but i still dont recommend if some one is not prepared to get a paint job if they screw up.
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Last edited by slybydesignw210 : 08-13-2007 at 09:51 PM.
Thanks for correcting me. Its a mil gauge as you mentioned. Ive seened it used. when I said sections of clear coat, i was referring to the sections which has thicker clear coat then other like curved areas. When I wet sanding my car, I did a bit of research at some body shops and they all told me what sections to watch out for and never let the sand paper touch at all. I had alot of fun doing it and my car looks 200xs better. but i still dont recommend if some one is not prepared to get a paint job if they screw up.
Ahhh...OK. Now it makes sense.
Using a mil gauge, find the areas that are 'lean' on paint and either stay away from them, or do them very lightly.
Thanks to you all for your great feedback. Before I could tell the detailer that I'm going to take my car back, he called me and said he polished and glazed my car again and it looks fine. We'll see when I pick it up. If it is still not in good order, I'll just find another guy. That said, one last quick quesiton...how many times can one polish a car without starting to really thin out a clear coat?
Thanks to you all for your great feedback. Before I could tell the detailer that I'm going to take my car back, he called me and said he polished and glazed my car again and it looks fine. We'll see when I pick it up. If it is still not in good order, I'll just find another guy. That said, one last quick quesiton...how many times can one polish a car without starting to really thin out a clear coat?
Thanks!
Here's the deal on black paint and swirl marks....Polishing is good and removes fine scratches and swirls. Depending on the grit of the polish, you should be able to do this 2 or 3 times a year. A glaze is a temporary filler that shines for a short time - until you wash the car again! In my opinion this is a lazy and cheap way to obtain a 'short term' shine. The key is to remove the swirls with polish, then use a quality wax that will last for more than one hand wash! A variety of quality products are out there. But, you must either use a wax or sealer after polish to make the shine last. Also, do not use Ajax to wash your car!
Cant give you an answer on that one. It all depends how agressive they got the prior times it was detailed!!!! Polishing really dosent remove much clear, Wet-sanding on the other hand can remove ALL of the clear if not done correctly. IMHO, I would not wet-sand!!! I have always had great luck with Maguires swirl-remover applied by machine, stay away from the edges of panels and finish around the edges by hand. I follow it up with a couple coats of NXT spread really thin, I do the second coat to elimanate ANY chance of missed spots or uneven finish. Then I make sure that ALL of my detailing stuff stays clean and dust free!!
A glaze is a temporary filler that shines for a short time - until you wash the car again! In my opinion this is a lazy and cheap way to obtain a 'short term' shine. The key is to remove the swirls with polish, then use a quality wax that will last for more than one hand wash! A variety of quality products are out there. But, you must either use a wax or sealer after polish to make the shine last.