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I wouldn't wax or glaze until the paint has cured for at least 30 days. It's OK to use polishes but be careful controlling heat on your buffer as the paint underneath hasn't cured yet. After wetsanding down to about 1,500 grit, I usually use a product like 3M Imperial Micro Finish, or Malco's polish on a rotary buffer with a polishing pad to get the sanding marks out. For Meg's equivalent, use their Mirror Glaze Heavy Cut Cleaner #4 or Medium Cut Cleaner #1 (start with #1 and if that doesn't cut it, try #4. #83 is made more for a DA buffer and find it poops on on my rotary but I think you need more cutting power than that for removing wet sanding marks. Once the wetsanding marks and any defects are gone, then hit it with #80 with a DA buffer (or rotary) to get a finer shine and remove any buffing marks left from the stronger products. The car will look great at that point and you should leave it at that until the paint is fully cured. Then if you want that deep wet look, put on Meg's #3 machine glaze by rotary buffer or #7 Show Car Glaze by hand or DA buffer. Then wax over it, probably either their NXT Tech Wax (paste/liquid, doesn't matter but liquid is easier to use with a buffer) or their Hi-Tech #26 (sort of their replacement for #16 which can never really be replaced).
If that doesn't do it, I move up to a courser product, and I've used wool pads before to remove the sanding marks.
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