Hi, I got a 10 year old S500 and since I've been taking care of it people always think that I had new paint job done recently. But I want that "wet look" to my paint.
I have seen what 3M hand glaze does, but it's best when used in 30 days after new paint job. I'm wondering if anyone knows of a good polish or glaze that can deliver the "wet look"?
Well, what I do every 4 months is:
1. Wash and dry
2. Clay with detailer
3. Wash and dry again
4. Wax
Never used any polishes, but now I want to and was wondering for the wettest look.
One question, I heard of people applying a compound between clay and polishing. What is that and how do you use it?
Well, what I do every 4 months is:
1. Wash and dry
2. Clay with detailer
3. Wash and dry again
4. Wax
Never used any polishes, but now I want to and was wondering for the wettest look.
One question, I heard of people applying a compound between clay and polishing. What is that and how do you use it?
Hello,
You're wasting time and money in your process. There is no need to wash then dry then clay then wash and dry again. That's a waste of time.
Rather wash the car, rinse it and while it's still wet you can clay the car and rinse it as you go along then dry the car.
Also, using a quick detailer as your clay lube is a waste of money. Instead use soap and water. Fill up a 32oz spray bottle with water and add several drops of car shampoo to the water and presto! You have a cheap yet very effective clay lube. The reason clay makers tell you to use their clay lube is because they want MONEY!! There is no significant advantage of their "clay lube" over soap and water. Just make sure you clay while the car is cool and out of the direct sun.
For polishing I highly recommend two manufacturers of polishes.
1) Optimum products
2) Menzerna products
Menzerna are designed around MB, at the OEM level. Menzerna Intensive Polish (IP) and also Final Finish II (FPII) are a great one-two combo for taking care of most paint issues. These are designed for rotary use but also work well with orbital polishers. I would not use IP by hand, FPII is safe for hand use though. The downside to IP is that it dries out quickly and it also dusts bad.
This is why I now use Optimum Polishes. They don't work as fast as the Menzerna line but they are safer to work with because they offer longer working times and they leave little to no dust behind. I also feel that Optimum Polish leaves a brighter finish behind.
Either way you can't really go wrong BUT I do also recommend you purchase a polisher. Porter Cable makes a nice, very affordable polisher for the weekend warrior. I believe it can be bought at many local retailers for around $125.00. I would purchase it on-line though at a auto detail supply place as you can get some nice deals which include the PC (Porter Cable) and some pads. Try Autogeek or Top Of The Line.
As for "compounding", there is really no need for compounding on most of todays newer paint finishes as they respond well to a mild polish and a polishing pad. Compounding is designed to remove oxidation (dead paint on pigmented single stage paints) and for also paint correction, like removing sanding marks and scratches on both single stage and two stage paints.
Most compounds are fairly abrasive so it is not recommend that they be used with an orbital polisher like the PC or by hand...especially if you are not familiar with paint correction. In the wrong hands a compound can worsen the situation rather than improve it...a case of the cure being worse than the illness[:D]
Thanks, very useful information. As to my method, I guess it takes longer period of time but everyone compliments my "new" paint job which is original and 10 years old. All that I'm really looking for is the wet look and I will try the Optimum brand since it's been recomended in other forums.
Thanks again!!!
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