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ABC Issues & More

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#1 · (Edited)
The purpose of this thread is to collect and organize the best ABC-related intelligence—as well as general-interest and DIY material—thus far shared in this forum. Any and all interested parties are invited to make contributions, criticisms, and references wherever indicated.

Free Advice said:
Do not buy a W215 CL-Class Mercedes without FIRST familiarizing yourself with the ABC System. This goes treble for old and/or high-mileage examples. Research is a much kinder & gentler teacher than Experience.
For the uninitiated, the ABC (Active Body Control) system is Mercedes's electro-hydraulic suspension which constantly self-monitors and adjusts suspension settings thereby virtually eliminating body roll and pitch in various driving situations including cornering, accelerating, and braking. You'll find it on CL and SL models; however I note that it's been supplanted by Airmatic in most W216 CLs.

MBUSA.COM said:
Arguably the most advanced suspension system in production, ABC provides an excellent balance of ride comfort and handling while virtually eliminating bodyroll during cornering. A series of sensors and electronically controlled high-pressure hydraulics counteracts the effects of roll, vibration, pitch, dive, and squat. And to help adjust ride quality and responsiveness, the driver can select either Sport or Comfort mode via a button next to the shift knob.
We are linking some of the clearest and most-informative ABC threads in the next post in this thread. Please contribute your own--just link here to the posts if they're already on the forum, and I'll take care of the cleanup. No way can I do this alone.

This post (scroll down) now serves as a general-issues sticky for non-ABC matters. (See the next post for ABC Threads.) Like it or not, our cars are aging, they are quite complex, and they'll have issues from time to time. We're here to help each other.

NB: Keep in mind that the W220 sedans are mechanically very similar, and vastly more numerous. Therefore the W220 Forum here at BenzWorld has a greater wealth of information, much of which applies to our cars. See especially their W220 Encyclopedia!

W215 Fuse & Relay Charts

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w215-cl-class/1599665-w215-fuse-relay-chart.html

W215 hidden fuses revealed

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w215-cl-class/1625470-w215-hidden-fuses-revealed.html

Car Won't Start? Some possible explanations

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/c21...wont-start-useful-information-pertaining.html

DIY remove/install starter for all W215 engines

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/c215-cl-class/2726345-diy-remove-install-starter-all-w215.html

Serpentine Belt + Tensioner (V12)

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w215-cl-class/2363705-serpentine-belt-tensioner.html

Mercedes CL500 Wiring diagram

(Sorry, broken Link needs Update)

Aftermarket Stereo: Double DIN Install on 2001 & 2003 C215

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/c215-cl-class/2711409-double-din-install-2001-2003-c215.html

Power assist doors & trunk issues

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w215-cl-class/1664704-power-assist-doors-trunk-question.html

Transmission Shifter Stuck in Park (From W220 Forum)

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1455706-shifter-stuck-park-handy-tools-heres.html

A/C Condensor Replacement

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w21...l500-c-condenser-replacement.html#post9623009

CV Boot replacement with MB parts


http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w215-cl-class/2423273-cv-boot-replacement-mb-parts.html

Tire advice / consensus

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w215-cl-class/1568989-best-tires.html

Ozan's Unofficial Mods & Maintenance Center

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w215-cl-class/1691416-stickey-please-list-how-helpful-maintenance.html

Edmunds Mercedes-Benz CL65 Long-Term Road Test

http://www.edmunds.com/mercedes-benz/cl-class/2005/long-term-road-test/introduction.html

http://www.edmunds.com/mercedes-ben...mercedes-benz-cl65-amg-another-abc-fault.html

http://www.edmunds.com/mercedes-ben...-pad-abc-and-check-engine-warning-lights.html

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(Note that the Forum Search feature now permits Google Search as an integrated function, and it often works better than the 'VB Search' option.)

PS: And for God's sake, people, when someone goes out of his way to help you with a problem, have the decency to thank him and/or hit the 'Like' button. Way too many people vanish after their problem was solved without even saying thanks.
 
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#36 ·
thank you for your response. I will look into the DVD.

As for the fluid levels, but I dropped the car off to the dealership, I had another mechanic who looked at the car and kindly filled up the car with fluid.

What the dealership said that really needed to be fixed were the leaks in the hoses. I ask can you patch them up and they were like no. The hoses need to be replaced and the transmission needs to be removed based on where the leaks might be coming from. So they said that would cost about $5K to do just that.

So I think I'm going to try to locate a mechanic who can maybe do this job for much cheaper?

Would going the Arnott route be a solution? or is that just as expensive. Seems that would take care of the the struts but not the hoses and pump right?
 
#38 ·
No problem, you are welcome.

How is the car driving and riding - now? Any leaks or peculiar sounds?

Definitely get the DVD - BEFORE - they work on the car. The purchase will put them on their best behaviour. :)

Have them hold off on doing anything on the car and tell them you are going to get a second opinion. They'll likely re-negotiate the price at that point....hehehe....but still get a second estimate elsewhere.

The idea to find a MB specialist indy mechanic, or any mechanic for that matter, is a good one.

Personally, what I do usually, is call my dealership and speak to the parts department. I ask them the cost of the parts I need and then I request a diagram of the component and locations.

The diagrams are usually of an 'exploded' view and are usually quite useful for understanding the work involved. (You can always take the diagram to an Indy shop too)

Further to that, I'll ask the parts guy to ask a tech for a rough estimate of the time involved. I do this over the phone without ever speaking to a Service Advisor.

IMO, $5k to replace some hoses is crazy and that alone would make me go elsewhere.

Any indy can do the job and for far less money, I would think.

Regarding Arnott, I think you may be right. Regardless, have an other mechanic look at your car for assessment of work needed.

Best wishes.
 
#39 · (Edited)
My Merc CL 600 (2002) has just been off to the garage (Klasse Mercedes, Fulham London) and after reporting an earlier hard ride I searched the forum and found very useful information.

I diagnosed my hard ride problem as a ruptured accumulator/dampner sphere attached to one of the valve blocks feeding the pressure to all struts. The hard ride was non specific so after eliminating a problem from each ABC strut this was the most likely problem and indeed replacing the sphere (accumulator) has improved the ride. I also realise, after riding in a Bentley Spur yesterday, that no matter how good your suspension design is, the roads of London are paved with potholes.

Cost of work £265.

Unfortunately my new Arnott Struts will also need replacing as one has a loose mount and the other an internal oil leak. I am sure we should be able to get more than six months use out of an ABC strut.
 
#40 ·
Unfortunately my new Arnott Struts will also need replacing as one has a loose mount and the other an internal oil leak. I am sure we should be able to get more than six months use out of an ABC strut.
I talked to a local (independent) mechanic who works on a lot of MB's. He hasn't had good luck with aftermarket/remanufactured suspension parts. His opinion is that they need to be replaced rather than rebuilt due to the moving parts. Your experience seems to back this up. Thanks for sharing that.
 
#42 ·
After messing with and not able to find out why my ABC system kept leaking and flushing oil out of the reservoir we finally fixed the problem.

It turned out that the pump had an ever so slight pin-hole small hole in the seal of the pump. Couldn't tell unless up in the air with the car running.
Pump worked fine but would spray/mist very fine oil out the pin-hole in the seal.
What made me loose oil fast though was caused by the system sucking air up through this pin-hole when shutting the car down.
Air would suck into the system and cause the oil to bubble up in the reservoir and than push out through the filler cap and main filter ring.

New pump: Dealer price a little over $900 plus $250 profit. Labor and oil another $800 for a total of just under $2,000.-
Car runs like a dream and finally without lights warnings and codes flashing at me.
130K Mls and going strong.
Hopefully nothing serious for the next 70k Mls or so ?!:thumbsup:
 
#46 ·
====
Well, I celebrated too early.

It turned out that the power steering fluid was leaking somewhere. I had to refill a few times and every time there were air bubbles in the reservoir? The power steering is run by the same ABC pump. Separate system though.

I brought the car back to the shop and told them to figure out what the problem was.

I now had returned the car, after the new ABC tandem pump was installed, 5 times?!
First the mechanic accidentally pinched the AC compressor wire while installing the ABC pump. The pump had to come out again.
Than the radiator hose had a perfect crack and that took us 4-5 days to diagnose while the coolant kept running out.
Than the power steering fluid kept having air in the reservoir. This caused noise. They simply filled up and of I went to air out the system by driving for 30 miles.

Here is the final diagnose; the Tandem pump, remanufactured by Mercedes, after install, had a bolt fall out that holds the two ends of the pump together. This caused the fluid to run out of the steering end of the pump?! What the HELL.

My shop will put in a new bolt and reinstall the pump but they are contacting Mercedes to have them pay for the labor. Of course!!! Another 8 hours labor?

Can you believe this?!
 
#43 ·
2005 R230, 32k - OK guys. Here is a tough one. My symptoms were exactly the same. A humming, buzzing noise that was very annoying. I took it in to dealer. Based on their invoice, they replaced 212-240-04-18 (engine mount), 220-327-02-15 (air reservor),1 quart of hydralic fluid and checked the line clearance to the front and back (N/C under warranty). Invoice says specifically "Replaced ABC PULSATION DAMPENER. The noise is exactly the same. Is there another possiblity?
 
#44 ·
Ok quick question for the ABC experts, I have a 00 CL500 that has C1525 and C1526 faults indicating low pressure intermittently. The ride feels rougher which seems odd with lower pressure, with my scan tool the pressure is normal at 190bar until I run the rodeo test. It drops down to 100bar and the faults return.

My question is that if this is normal or the pressure is really low during the test, if its supposed to stay up Im suspecting the expensive pump. If it drops low then Im stuck at square one.

Any help is appreciated, thanks!
 
#45 ·
I have same problem, bought new pump, new oil, but still this pressure drop when i do rodeo test. I saw it went fast to 50 bars and from there very slowly further. Oil is not leaking outside of the system, so I think it's leaking inside struts or valves in to the return line...
 
#47 ·
ABC Visit Workshop (in white on dash)

I bought a Dec 2002 CL500 (facelift model) on 26 July 2011. Whenever I stop for any length of time over about 45 seconds, e.g. in traffic or at a busy junction, I get in white on the dash "ABC Visit Workshop". Handling doesn't change - continues to drive fine. I know the Tandem Pump was replaced before I bought the car (thankfully with a warranty) and I've just had a rear shock absorber replaced, which the indy dealer suggested was causing the issue (couldn't see the link myself). Picked it up today and within 10 miles, on stopping at the first busy junction I came to, the warning reappeared. Stopped to visit friends for an hour and then I was lucky enough to drive 90 miles home without any significant stoppages and hence no warning. A few weeks ago I drove from Norwich all the way to Tenbury Wells with no warning and within a minute of stopping in a layby with the engine running the warning appeared. I keep a check on the Pentosin Oil and have added a couple of quarters of a litre in the last 3 weeks, just in case. Dodgy sensor maybe? Should I be concerned?
 
#48 ·
I would say no, but then with this system... You really never know. And usually it's cheaper to repair faults before :D if I remember right, white ABC is under "normal" or low pressure, 160bar or something like that... Could be just dirty sensor... Or you can change 50$ filter to feel beter (I hope You have allready new one 3or4micrones, old was 10micrones). Check oil level for suspension and for steering (same pump) to sleep beter. I would change oil every 100 miles or 5 years.
 
#50 ·
please help tilting 1cm to the wright.

hello quick question for abc experts, i have a 2002 cl500 85k miles, i just replaced the tandem pump like 4 months ago, they did a ps flush becasue wrong fluid was pored into reservoir, after that everything works perfect no noises, das test performed no faulty codes, no abc lights on or anything but the car is 1-1.5 centimeters higher in the right side all the time on off fast or slow handling is not affected at all feels normal ( passanger side) is this normal ??

what could it be ?

what should i do ?

thank you very much for your help every body!
 
#56 ·
.... but the car is 1-1.5 centimeters higher in the right side all the time on off fast or slow handling is not affected at all feels normal ( passanger side) is this normal ??

what could it be ?
I'm no expert on ABC, but I do realize that the basic ride height is set by the level sensors on each suspension unit. There is a 'control loop', but the basic height is set at 4 level sensors B22/7, B22/8, B22/9, B22/10. left/right, front /rear.

On a previous thread, a poster with this ABC problem found that the bracket holding one sensor was bent (after travelling over a pothole) giving a similar effect to that you have. So take a look underneath for any signs of damage.
 
#52 ·
i took it to benz and told them i needed my suspension re calibrated,they did star das but they told me everything was fine that my abc didnt have any faulty codes, thats why i am very confused and not so sure what to do if ignore it or what?.

please help me with any ideas or solutions?

thanks a million for the help.
 
#57 ·
thank you

excellent reply thank you very much ill check for the bent arm that makes sense.
do i need to lift the car ?
how does it look like ?
could you post the link of that thread you told me about ?

thank you very much i have spend months and a lot of $ trying to figure out this problem i appreciate your time and help.
 
#58 ·
do i need to lift the car ?
how does it look like ?
could you post the link of that thread you told me about ?
If you want to inspect the front suspension, you might have to remove the underside splash panel before you can see it. You may be able to do this with the car jacked up on one side, but it's best checked from below with the car on a hoist/lift at your nearest Inde.

I have added some WIS drawings to show you what the sensor & bracket look like, and where they are located.

Also I have found the thread that I referred to earlier. The poster has an S600 with ABC. The symptom was similar to yours but he suspected a strut failure. After some posts and WIS drawings, he inspected his suspension and found the damaged bracket.

Of course, this suggestion is just a hunch. Your problem can be many things.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/general-mercedes-benz/1598106-diy-abc-rear-strut-01-s600.html
 

Attachments

#60 ·
anybody happens to know part number for hose which goes from pump, wraps around transmission, for 215.375 i have epc but cant figure out which one is which, pictures are not very well illustrated, looks like number 150 from picture 7/10 but looks too short p/n 2203204372, please somebody correct me.
 
#61 ·
Hello,

Please help with your expert advice - 03 CL500

I'm recently experiencing ABC message while driving about 15mins. At first was the regular visit workshop message then couple minutes later it's the red message. The rear passenger drops when car is sitting. I took it my MB mechanic and it was diagnosed with the following ABC codes:

C1531-004 left rear strut moves with closed locking valve
C1525-064 system PSI too low
C1526-016 malfunction in PSI supply

Their advice is to get the pump replace and if the rear suspension continues to drop then the rear valve block also need to be replaced. The cost to replace the pump is $2700 + tax, and $1600 + tax for the valve block. They're not sure what exactly need to be replace until they takes it apart.

The car has been sitting in my garage since the diagnose. I raised the car and all the suspensions seem to hold up for about 3 weeks then the rear dropped. There are no visible leakages. I had the accumulator replaced, fluid flushed, and replace the filter couple months ago and the car went through the "Rodeo" when they did all that work according to my mechanic.

Please help me determine what is it that need to replace because my mechanic is not 100% sure. I'm questioning whether it is the pump or something else. I have some questions below. Thanks in advance for your answers!!!

If the pump failed then wouldn't all 4 suspensions dropped not just the rear passenger? And wouldn't I also be experiencing steering stiffness if the pump is not working?

I'm no mechanic but I'm leaning towards replacing the rear valve block because it is loosing pressure due to not closing properly???

Does the price seem right to get those parts replaced in Sacramento, CA?

Are there any signs indicating the pump is failing?

Thank You!
 
#62 ·
I've read most issues presented here related to the ABC system and I watched the video from autobotsauto, I read about people spending huge or little money to come up with a solution to this whole mess.
My question is this: is there a right thing to do to solve the ABC problem forever no matter the cost small or into the thousands of dollars and be done with it? I, so far don't have the car acting in any way maybe due to low mileage and not the age of the car but want to learn more and do it the right way the 1st time. I do not mind spending the right amount of money to have something I want and love and this car is a good example of such thing.
My car came with all the books and records but no maintenance or any repair records at all, I am not sure if there were any recalls done or if there were any at all and is this that makes me worry a little...I'm sure you guys know what I mean.
Do we have a final solution to fix the ABC?
Thank you.
 
#63 ·
Is my pump going out or just a leak?

I have a 2002 CL 500 AMG and my ABC light came on but found out my fluid was low so i topped it off and light went off and car was running perfect. 3 days later i park in the garage after work and feel my front end is lower than usual and ABC light is on again. I park it at work and 16 hours later after work it is so low the front end wheels are tucked into the wheel well. I did not drive it as I didnt want my fenders to bend when i turned. My back end is perfect height but front end will not lift at all not even with the button to raise and lower the car. Please any help would be great. I heard that if the back end is still good then it might not be the pump and not as costly which is what I am hoping for.
 
#64 ·
I have had the same problem with the rear of my 2001 CL500 - with over 220.000 Miles -
I start the car, if the car is sitting low, I hit the brake hard, sometimes it will raise up, other times it will not. If not, I turn off the ignition for a minute or two, start it again and raise it to position one or two, and it usually works. Have been doing it for 2 years or more. I keep checking my ABC/steering fluid - if the colour changes - I take out one or two liters, replace with fresh fluid, have the Rodeo done - and keep driving. My mechanic tells me the problem is the block.
 
#66 ·
ABC not only fun... also a fire hazard =/

Well my turn for the ABC problem on my 2002 CL500. :crybaby2:

The high pressure hose ruptured and sprayed hot sexy fluid all over the catalytic converter resulting in a huge plume of smoke, a few flames and some smirks from the guy next door that I'm pretty sure violates himself looking at pics of his toyota camrys (he has 2!?). Fortunately I was able to hose down the engine compartment... Thankfully I was nearly home when this happened. :(

So I called the dealership which confirmed the recall work on the high pressure hose had been done in 2007. And that is that. Pay us $ please. :p

So I wrote MB corporate, and they called me back! ...to inform me the work had been done and yea... that really is that. Pay us to fix our dangerous defective product. :mad:

When I advised the MB rep I'd report this safety related defect to NHTSA he requested I describe precisely what happened and advised me I would be recorded... For training purposes of course. Yea... :thumbsup:

The thing is... this particular ABC problem is more than just expensive. It's downright dangerous.

So now I've reported this incident to NHTSA and I would suggest anyone who's had this particular ABS failure to do the same.
 
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