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Rear Main Seal?

18K views 23 replies 5 participants last post by  Kuba Kalinowski 
#1 ·
I'm getting ready to replace my rear main seal and the plate. I already have the rear main seal, plate and MB sealant. I will be using my friend shop that equipped with a car lift and transmission jack.

I been finding out there are at least (2) stretch bolts, need to be replace. I can't find any specification on those bolts and or part number. If you have the part number to these bolts please post it up and the torque spec for the new replacement bolts?

Curing time for the sealant before you can put the transmission back in. How long do I need to wait for the curing time? While I'm doing the rear main seal and the plate what else should I replace while I'm in there?

I already replace the conductor plate, pilot bushing, transmission pump seal & front main seal. The transmission fluid & filter already been change few month back.
 
#2 ·
I been finding out there are at least (2) stretch bolts, need to be replace. I can't find any specification on those bolts and or part number. If you have the part number to these bolts please post it up and the torque spec for the new replacement bolts?
I'm having difficulty working out which bolts you are referring to here. Could it be these 4 shown on the WIS drawing for r/install the end cover?

The torques for these bolts are shown in the pdf below. I do not think that these are 'stretch bolt' as used on the cylinder head. If they should not be replaced the WIS says so. But the torque is different if the casing is new. In your situation just use the torque stated for 'pre-tapped thread'

Curing time for the sealant before you can put the transmission back in. How long do I need to wait for the curing time? While I'm doing the rear main seal and the plate what else should I replace while I'm in there?
Follow the instructions on the Loctite sealant. Your engine is type 113.968
 

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#3 ·
Thanks Key for the PDF file. I did more searching on the net for those stretch bolts. There referring to the flywheel. Can I get away from using the original bolts are should I replace them?
 
#4 ·
WIS advises when removing bolts of Flywheel or of Drive Plate: Replace bolts.

For your engine, torque the flywheel bolts
Stage 1, 45 Nm. then
Stage 2, another 90 degrees.

WIS drg No AR03.30-p-80001C

PS. Do you know about a 'retaining lock' special tool used to hold the starter ring gear to the crankshaft? It goes into the starter opening with the starter removed. I'm not sure why this is required....:confused:
 
#5 · (Edited)
I was not aware of any retaining lock. I don't see why you have to remove the starter is when I'm dropping the transmission with the starter still on the transmission. I don't think the retaining lock apply when doing a rear main seal and plate. I can be wrong.
 
#6 ·
When you separate the transmission from the engine, two of those bell housing bolts do double-duty to hold the starter into the engine bell housing. It will be loose, and you will need to move it out of position in order to replace the flex plate (a.k.a. flywheel). Of course it has a live 12v connection, so make sure you disconnect the vehicle battery when doing this job.

When you remove and replace the bolts for the flex plate, the torque of that will try to rotate the crankshaft. You may heed to hold the the flex plate in place, and there is a tool that goes into the bell housing opening for the starter to trap the teeth of the flex plate. You actually do not have to remove the starter as there are two identical starter mount openings on the bell housing on opposite sides (required for LH vs RH drive setups). So, you can use the tool on the left side since your starter will be on the right.

When I replaced the flex plate on my CLK550, I just used two wrenches - one to hold on a bolt to keep the engine from rotating, another to torque a second bolt.
 
#7 ·
rudeney has answered my question above - which would have been obvious to me if I had ever removed my flywheel...

Here is the WIS procedure for that task. My view after reading is that it is probably more 'convenient' if the starter motor is totally removed, and the electrics disconnected. Maybe the gears can get enmeshed if the starter stays in place.

(It's good to have a working WIS again! :)
 

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#8 ·
Actually, once you remove the bell housing bolts, the starter may just fall away. This, and just working in the area of that uninsulated, live +12v wire connected to the start is why you want to disconnect the vehicle battery. You don't want any shorts causing sparks! You really don't need to disconnect the wiring at the starter - there will be enough slack to move it out of the way enough to work.

Even if you leave the starter in place in the engine bell housing, you'll have no issues. It's pinion gear will not be engaged with the flywheel - it only does that when the solenoid actuates it during starting. There is a "hood" over that pinion gear that protrudes into the bell housing, but there is a good inch of clearance between it and the flywheel. But again, moving the starer out of its position int he bell housing is easy enough and will give you more room to work.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Most likely I will use (2) wrench like you did Rudeney. Don't think my friend has that special tool in the shop. Key thanks for posting up the WIS. Now I got a better understanding of the procedure. I have done rear main seal on Honda while the motor was already out of the engine bay. This will be the first on the Benz for me. Seem straight forward.

Did more researching on the hardware bolts. Came across these (2) bolts. Witch one, should I order/replace?
(8) W0133-2052130 (OEM Mercedes-Benz) Clutch Flywheel Bolt, 0.2"x1.1"x0.2" - Starter Ring Gear to Crankshaft
(8) W0133-2032805 (OEM Mercedes-Benz) Clutch Flywheel Bolt, 0.6"x1.5"x0.6" - Flywheel to Crankshaft

Edit:
Remove Bolts (3) of flywheel or of drive plate. Replace bolts (BA03.30P-1002-01D). That was mention in Key WIS PDF file.
Is it the bolts from the flywheel to crankshaft (W0133-2032805)?
 
#10 ·
There are two different bolts, depending on your engine serial number. up to 30-573006, it's A0049903212. As of 30-573007, it's A0079905104. If you don't know your engine serial number, post your VIN and I can look it up.
 
#16 ·
According to WIS, the bolts need to be replaced as they are "one time use". That usually means the threads will stretch when torqued, so new ones are necessary. I can't think of anything else you'd need. Some people will replace the o-rings on the transmission cooling lines, but that's probably not necessary.
 
#18 ·
i posted the part number for the bolts above. I can lookup the seal for you, but you really need to update your forum user's profile to include your exact car model and your location.
 
#22 ·
No, you need a whole kit for changing the transmission filter and fluid. You have to drain it before removing it. if you are serious about this DIY project, you really need to invest $30 in your own copy of WIS so you'll have all the documentation, including bolt torque, etc.
 
#23 · (Edited)
For the rear main seal you need the following
-Engine Rear Crankshaft Main Seal (Part number 1129970246)
-Rear Main Seal Cover Plate (Part number 1120110208)
-Surface Sealing (Part number A003989982010)
-Bolt Secures the flywheel to the crankshaft 25.5mm Long (Part number 0049903212)
-Motor oil's and oil filter not needed good ideal to change it out if it's old.

For Transmission you need the following
-Transmission Pan Gasket (Part number 1402710080)
-Transmission Oil Filter (Part number 1402770095)
-Transmission Dipstick Tube Cap Lock Pin (Part number 1409910055)
-Transmission Dipstick Tube Seal Ring (Part number 0229972248)
- Washer
-Transmission fluid's
(Or you can buy the Transmission service kit that included everything)

NOTE: YOU NEED TO VERIFY THE CORRECT PART NUMBER FOR YOUR VEHICLE
 
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