C208 can't turn key - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Question C208 can't turn key

Hi all,

I have a 2001 CLK203 (C208). The car had a dead battery which I replaced. After fooling around with windows that didn't close properly anymore, I experienced some issues with turning the key making the car start.

Let me explain:
If I put the (electronic) key in, nothing happens (small tiny tiny sound somewhere in the back of the car). But all is completely dead. It's not the steering lock preventing me from turning the key. For some unexplainable reason 5 minutes later it worked. Key in ignition, key turns, car starts and runs beautifully.

BUT THEN: Next day when I opened the car and wanted to start the car the same thing happend. I can't turn the freaking key!

I started swapping fuses to see if something was burned and by mistake I put FUSE 26 (Instrument cluster) into FUSE 27 (can't remember what it is, but it was empty / optional). Guess what: The car starts after 5 minutes.

Now my GF which drives the car complained about not having a speedometer, so when she came back from grocery shopping I, confirmed the instrument cluster (Fuel gauge, speedo, RPM etc) was dead.... So opened the fuse box and noticed that I misplaced FUSE 26 (into FUSE 27). So easy fix right? Placed FUSE 26 back. car starts, happy days!!!

Not really because after an undefined period of time (2+ hours) the freaking car key wont turn and wont start!!!

So, as rudimental is I like to be wedged out FUSE 26 and 15minute later, freaking car starts.

Whats busted here?

Thanks,
Paul
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 01:49 PM
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If you have 2nd key. try it.

If not, clean end of yours and the place it inserts in dash.

It is quite possible that fuse fiddling has no actual effect, just incidental.

Could be EIS going south, do door lock functions work 100%?
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 93SoCal400E View Post
If you have 2nd key. try it.

If not, clean end of yours and the place it inserts in dash.

It is quite possible that fuse fiddling has no actual effect, just incidental.

Could be EIS going south, do door lock functions work 100%?
Tried 2nd key. Exactly the same problem. Contacts are clean. Furthermore, I find it hard to believe that its not fuse26 related with the situation described above.

Having that said, the drivers window works but if I open the door it drops 25% and doesn't move up.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks!
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 01:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulemous View Post
Tried 2nd key. Exactly the same problem. Contacts are clean. Furthermore, I find it hard to believe that its not fuse26 related with the situation described above.

Having that said, the drivers window works but if I open the door it drops 25% and doesn't move up.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks!
You mentioned your battery was dead, once you charged it, did you perform the reset procedure correctly?


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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 02:33 AM Thread Starter
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You mentioned your battery was dead, once you charged it, did you perform the reset procedure correctly?
Nope. I have no clue what that is. Please point me in the right direction.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 04:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulemous View Post

If I put the (electronic) key in, nothing happens (small tiny tiny sound somewhere in the back of the car). But all is completely dead. It's not the steering lock preventing me from turning the key. For some unexplainable reason 5 minutes later it worked. Key in ignition, key turns, car starts and runs beautifully.

I started swapping fuses to see if something was burned and by mistake I put FUSE 26 (Instrument cluster) into FUSE 27 (can't remember what it is, but it was empty / optional). Guess what: The car starts after 5 minutes.

Now my GF which drives the car complained about not having a speedometer, so when she came back from grocery shopping I, confirmed the instrument cluster (Fuel gauge, speedo, RPM etc) was dead.... So opened the fuse box and noticed that I misplaced FUSE 26 (into FUSE 27). So easy fix right? Placed FUSE 26 back. car starts, happy days!!!
There is something screwy here and I suspect you have confused yourself by swapping fuses.

fuse f26 (10A) is for Instrument cluster, A/C, plus a number of other things
fuse f27 (15A) is for ESL module only (N26/5 ) Electric Steering Lock. It must be there.

There is clearly nothing wrong with your keys. The key will not turn because it is prevented by the complicated DAS3 system (Drive Authorization System). This does diagnostic checks on a number of systems before allowing the key to move, via positions 1 & 2 to the engine START position. - posn 3. In your case, N26/5 did not operate correctly - maybe the movement sensor is bad or the fuse is faulty.

I think that you missed a trick when you inserted the key into position 0. There should have been a whirring sound as the steering lock opened. (That rear noise was possibly the PSE module in the trunk that powers the door locks)

Firstly, I would re-check that fuse f27 is seated correctly and is not corroded causing a bad contact.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf W208 fuses F1 block C assignments.pdf (403.3 KB, 17 views)
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 06:22 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by keyhole View Post
There is something screwy here and I suspect you have confused yourself by swapping fuses.

fuse f26 (10A) is for Instrument cluster, A/C, plus a number of other things
fuse f27 (15A) is for ESL module only (N26/5 ) Electric Steering Lock. It must be there.

There is clearly nothing wrong with your keys. The key will not turn because it is prevented by the complicated DAS3 system (Drive Authorization System). This does diagnostic checks on a number of systems before allowing the key to move, via positions 1 & 2 to the engine START position. - posn 3. In your case, N26/5 did not operate correctly - maybe the movement sensor is bad or the fuse is faulty.

I think that you missed a trick when you inserted the key into position 0. There should have been a whirring sound as the steering lock opened. (That rear noise was possibly the PSE module in the trunk that powers the door locks)

Firstly, I would re-check that fuse f27 is seated correctly and is not corroded causing a bad contact.
Weird.

My GF is driving the car right now. I know for a fact that Fuse26 isn't in there. I placed it (the 10AMP fuse) in Fuse27 (location).

The instrument cluster is indeed not working at the moment but the AC works....

Once she is back I will put a fuse (15AMP) in Fuse27 and place the a 10AMP fuse back in Fuse26. Let see what happens.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 09:05 AM
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OK.

Next time the key refuses to turn, before you do anything else pop the hood and check the voltage at the battery terminals. It wouldn't be the first time that a new battery turned out to be an intermittent dud.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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OK.

Next time the key refuses to turn, before you do anything else pop the hood and check the voltage at the battery terminals. It wouldn't be the first time that a new battery turned out to be an intermittent dud.
Battery is solid 14.8V
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 04:56 AM
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What keyhole has stated about the battery is quite correct, if the current is low, then the key whiring sound when you insert it will stop, usually from expereince around 9v.

If you battery is compeltely dead or you disconnect it, you cannot just charge and go as you need to perform the reset to sync your windows, heater, ABS/ETS, roof etc etc....

Follow these steps below:


Preparation Steps:
1. Make sure your steering wheel is straight.
2. Make sure your windows are all the way up
3. Make sure your sun roof is completely closed (if you have one)
4. Make sure your parking brake is released.
6. Turn off your stereo and make sure you have your stereo's Anti-theft code.
7. Turn off your heat/AC blower
8. Turn off your lights
9. Make sure your doors are UNLOCKED.

Now, disconnect battery 30 secs and then reconnect.
Get in car close the door and turn the key to position 2 (Just before you start the engine but do not start it)

1. Resetting your windows: Bring down both windows at the same time by holding the switches just before the click that brings them down automatically. Once both windows are all the way down make both switches click by pressing them all the way down and hold them for 3 secs (This lets the ECU learn that that is the end of the window track and it records it in memory). Do the same for closing the windows by holding both switches and making them click once the windows are all the way up.

2. Turn on your blower and make both sides go to 72 deg (if you have this typr of heater control) by pressing both up and down buttons at the same time. This will calibrate the ECU
3. Turn on your stereo and enter you stereo code.
4. Pull the sun roof all the way back and all the way forward then up and then done.

6. Turn all you lights on and off, including your fog lights.

7. Turn the key back to position 0.

8. Turn on your engine. You will get 2 malfunctions, your ABS and ESP lights will be on and must be calibrated.

9. Calibrate your ABS and ESP systems by turning the steering wheel all the way to your RIGHT and then all the way to your LEFT, then bring it back to the middle. Notice the two yellow lights disappear from you dashboard.

10. Let your car run in idle for about 5 minutes and then take it for a spin. Remember your ECU is still getting all the readings from all the sensors on your car so drive slowly first then faster... and so on.. you are basically teaching your ECU how to handle your car.


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