Months ago I said I would post this - so here it is
First and foremost --
This should be titled "What I did when I replaced my front wheel bearing" as I do not even pretend to have enough experience to tell you what to do. I looked up how to do this, took some pictures along the way and thought I would share with you.
I didn't even do everything you are supposed to because I hated doing this.
Thanks to benzworld, we have some people smarter than me that will chime in and critique what I did and what is advised - you should listen to them.
Cross reference this thread too - highly relevant : http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...placement.html
Having said that --
Autohausaz has a great kit for this and pretty cheap:
Your Parts Search Returned 2 Part(s)
You also need a tube of green Benz wheel sAUSe :
1. Jack up the car, secure with jack stands.
2. Remove wheel
I really hate how ugly and rusty this part of my car is
3. We need to remove the caliper, which is a 18mm bolt. Make sure you have this 18mm
socket as it is a weird size and probably not included in your set. Get a good one.
Mine was on pretty tight so I had to apply some WD-40 or similar sauce to loosen up (embarassingly dirty I know)
After you unbolt both 18mm bolts that hold it on, take it off the wheel and rest it on a jack stand or tie it up so it is out of the way.
4. You need to take the dust cap off and get to here:
This was a nightmare for me. It took forever.
I read places to use a screw driver and a hammer. That didn't work.
I got on my bike and went to get some locking pliers and some thing like these 4 Piece Tongue and Groove Joint Pliers Set - Pliers - Hand Tools
I don't know what to tell you here other than it sucked trying to get this som'bitch off and it took so long I almost gave up. But finally it came off. Since you have a new dust cap in the kit you don't have to worry about screwing it up to get it off.
5. Take the rotor off by unscrewing the alan screw that can be seen to the right. The kit has another one included if you want to replace. After that it slides right off.
6. In the above image you can see the clamping nut, which you remove by loosening the alan bolt. This is what you use to adjust the play in it by the way - this is what you will tighten and then back off a bit so that you have a little bit of play. You don't want it tightened all the way.
7. Now you can remove the hub:
8. As you have probably guessed - I am of rather feeble mind. The next step was another nightmare / hour long point of frustration - removing the outer seal of the bearing:
That took. So. Long.
I used a screwdriver and a hammer to do whatever I could to get that out and it took forever.
9. Now you can remove the old bearing. ((Mine happen to look perfectly fine - so I either diagnosed the wrong wheel - or more likely I need to change the center support bearing on my drive shaft which is what is ACTUALLY making that rotational wow-wow-wow sound.))
Clean all the old grease out you can. There is a lot and you will need a lot of shop towels, rags, etc.
10. Apply the wheel bearing grease sAUSe to the new bearing. You need to pack as much of this as possible. I put gobs on my hand then pressed it in the bearing until you can see it from the other side.
There are all kinds of tools and hints out there for how to do it, just make sure whatever you use it is in there.
Anywhere there was grease, take it out and reapply adequately.
11. There is actually another seal inside the hub that was included in my kit. I did not replace it because it did not seem to want to come out and it appeared fine as well. This is what I mean when I say I didn't do everything you are supposed to and to not do what I do
12. Insert the new bearing in the hub and insert the new outer seal that came with the kit. You can put this in place using a hammer and a soft object or a piece of wood like in the 210 thread.
13. Place the hub back on the car and put the clamping nut back on. Tighten it and then back off a little bit so that there is a little play in the wheel. You can use this method to approximate it adequately.
Benz says to use a Magnetic Dial Indicator to get this exact. If you are technically inclined to do so and look up the specs - this is the way to go.
14. Place the new dust cap on and put the rotor back on with the new alan bolt that comes with the kit (usually.)
15. Lastly - if you don't use this tool to put your wheels back on - you are doing yourself a disservice:
Since we use lug bolts on our cars, its annoying to get the wheel on quickly and alligned with the holes.
Benz provides this tool in your tool kit in the trunk to screw in as an alignment guide and palce the wheel on. Then you remove it to place the last one in. Very convenient.
There about 100 things to add to this, so please all critiques welcome! The beauty of this site is the knowledge it provides externally by so many people who just read the dialogue set out to do something on their own