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180K views 73 replies 39 participants last post by  Needleroozer 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Diy's

Some great helpers here:

Pick the year and model and it will give you all sorts of repair and diagnostic info:

http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/index.asp?sid=26230328&uid=s9072919.main.autorefctr

Unfortunately this site is no longer free.


This search engine searches across various car forums in only messages written by users. No merchant web sites are included in the search results. You can always find merchant web sites in the Ads shown to the right of search results or at the bottom of the search result page. If you are looking for something to buy, simply click those ads:

http://drivingfun.googlepages.com/

Added: Transmission Oil and Filter Change.
Please PM any new and useful threads/posts to Marsden for now, thanks.
 
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#58 ·
DIY w208 Crankshaft Position Sensor

Hi all,

I wanted to return the favor. After reviewing numerous posts here, I was able to successfully change my CPS. With the correct small tools, you can get it done with an an hour easy. Def beats paying $450USD. I'm near Boston Ma and everything is extremely expensive- or at least I believe so.

All you need to do this job is;
- E-8 Torx 1/4" Socket(believe its a female as it is an actual socket). I made the mistake of buying a male socket (with a head on it) that looked more like a Allen wrench). I'll post pictures of everything. Must use a 1/4" socket - I tried a 3/8, n it wouldn't fit.
- A very small 1/4" socket (about 4" long). Some people were saying to use a 10 inch ext- but I didn't feel it gave me a good angle. Or at lest on my 55. So I used a small ratchet with a small ext.

It was very easy to snap off the air intake as well as the mass air flow sensor. I did get stuck when I removed the MAF Sensor because there is this J-hook plastic that the MAF Sensor attaches to. I didn't want to pull it off but saw on top there is a plastic arm that latches to the engine- but even when I figured that out- I couldn't detach it because there was a hose attached (which I couldn't get off). So I left the j hook plastic piece on, basically laid on top of the engine, removed the CPSConnector (which is right under the Jhook plastic piece that attached to the MAF- and about an inch or 2towards the driver side. I then put my left hand/arm along the rear pass side of the engine and my right along the driver side (with the small ratchet in hand (with one small ext to give me an extra inch). It came right off.

Some people say its about ten inches down but on my clk55 AMG- it was about 6 inches down. Minimal space to work. It's a plus to have small hands also.

My car has 175k. I'm not sure if I paid to replace it years ago, have had the car since 40k in 2005. Normally I figure its best to pay someone rather than to take all the time- but after paying for so many damn repairs- I can not afford to pay people any longer! I've spent $4k this summer on spark plugs/ignition, breather hoses, valve cover gaskets (upper&lower), serpentine belt/ tensioner assembly, idle pulley, power steering res oring/fluid, oiler cooler gasket/seals, oil pressure cover gasket, MAFS, 2eng mounts, a transmission mount, and a front wheel bearing.
 
#61 ·
I'm looking for a diy on removing & replacement of the tie rod assembly and motor mounts for a 2001 CLK 430.
Thanks
These are the WIS procedures for replacing the tie rods and the motor mounts.

I believe that it is not essential to completely lift the engine out as specified here. I am sure that some members have used a jack to change the mounts one side at a time.
 

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#64 ·
Does anyone have step by step how to remove a cylinder head on 2000 clk 320 driver side particularly removing rockers and lifters i have chocolate milk in my reservoir also need new radiator could that be the culprit no mixture in the dipstick ran regular 50/50 radiator fluid. PLEASE HELP
 
#65 ·
Hi I have a Mercedes CLK320 2000, I started to get a alternator/battery error, I have now replaced the battery, alternator and a after I drove the car for a day I got the error back, I'm afraid is a fuse or I have read alse where the BCM or battery relay, but for some odd and strange readon I cannot find them, I found a relay in the fuse box inside the engine (passenger side) and I also found the same relay by the battery, I switched both just in case its the problem but it didn't help the number for that relay was A0025421319. I have tried to look for different diagrams and haven't found the relay nor the BCM.
 
#68 ·
First i wanna say thanks to this site haven't figured my way around it yet but the information from this site is PRICELESS. .
I've completed my head job i revalved iwith new I/E valves new hydraulic lifters new fuel injectors new fuel filter new radiator and reservoir definitely get a parts washer im proud to say she's drives like new. I couldn't imagine what the stealershiip would've charged
 
#70 ·
CLK 320 HEAD GASKET

No it was the cheap stuff i had changed the water pump put the 50/50 in was in a rush to get to work didn't tighten up the bottom water pump line it blew off and i over heated the gasket so i started doing research on diy ur right not alot of info on here but definitely enough to get u going in the rite direction i didn't take any pictures simply cause it was my first time and i loved every minute of it i learned so much she purrs like a kitten
 
#71 ·
Thanks for the reply, pleased to hear it wasn't a faulty head gasket but still sad and a waste of $s that it overheated.

Please ensure you use the Mercedes coolant or equivalent and change it every 3 years plus regular oil changes and these engines can hit 500 000 kms easily:smile

Enjoy
 
#73 · (Edited)
CLK430 W208 A/C compressor removal

Figured it out.
Have A/C system evacuated.
Jack up front end and place on jack stands.
Slacken drive belt and remove belt from compressor.
Disconnect suction line at rear of compressor using a 6mm hex. A flex head 3/8th ratchet is strongly suggested. The bolt was pretty tight so I used a shot of PB Blaster and a small cheater bar on the ratchet.
Disconnect discharge line from compressor with 6mm hex. Even with the flex head I couldn't get to the bolt so I left it attatched to the compressor and disconnected this hose near the radiator using 25 and 27mm open end wrenches.
Remove the three E12 bolts and unplug the electrical connection by pulling straight out. I found it easier to unplug with the compressor unbolted.
Wiggle the compressor out towards the rear.
Done.
Install in reverse except for the electrical connector. Get the compressor bolted in then plug in the connector.
Tighten E12 bolts to 20nm, 14.75 ft lbs.
 
#74 ·
Figured it out.
Have A/C system evacuated.
Jack up front end and place on jack stands.
Slacken drive belt and remove belt from compressor.
Disconnect suction line at rear of compressor using a 6mm hex. A flex head 3/8th ratchet is strongly suggested. The bolt was pretty tight so I used a shot of PB Blaster and a small cheater bar on the ratchet.
Disconnect discharge line from compressor with 6mm hex. Even with the flex head I couldn't get to the bolt so I left it attatched to the compressor and disconnected this hose near the radiator using 25 and 27mm open end wrenches.
Remove the three E12 bolts and unplug the electrical connection by pulling straight out. I found it easier to unplug with the compressor unbolted.
Wiggle the compressor out towards the rear.
Done.
Install in reverse except for the electrical connector. Get the compressor bolted in then plug in the connector.
Tighten E12 bolts to 20nm, 14.75 ft lbs.
I wonder if it's easier on a 430 because you have more room behind the compressor, or easier on a 320 because you have more room in front? Fortunately (?!?!) for me I need to replace the power steering hoses, too, so I'm going to get the P/S pump out of the way before I go for the A/C compressor.
 
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