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w108 '69 280SE WILL NOT START? :(

9K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  Gross68_280se 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi guys,

I really need some expertise help here. My baby is a 1969 280SE W108 6cyl FI. After dropping and replacing the auto trans and coolant the car would not start. Before I did this she started first time every time.

I have cleaned the throttle and air filter/s 'tank' and noticed fuel leaking from the throttle?

I have tried addressing the problem with no luck
-cleaned throttle and air filters
-new s/plugs (has spark)
-new battery (due to hopeful constant cranking :S)
-new unleaded fuel

Any help would be greatly appreciated summers approaching fast :( :).
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the complement on the E, I'm in Pascoe Vale South, other side of town to you.

I've had this happen to me before, check the condition of your cap and rotor if they look old, change them out.

When I bought my 280S, she started and ran ok, then the next morning it would not start, as soon as I replaced the cap and rotor she fired into life, I got the parts from my local Burson store, here are the Bosh part numbers that we worked out and I used......

Distributor Cap - GB75. My 280S is the caby version, might be the same, Double check.

Rotor - GB603


Contact set (points) - GB504, same as older Holdens and Valiants

Condencer - GB553

I only installed the cap and rotor because she started up, but I also replaced the spark plugs and the leads as they looked old.

Then acouple of weeks ago my 280SE 3.5 didn't want to start and all did was the cap and rotor and she started up like nothing had happened.

I hope this helps.

Cheers

Peter

Check your PM for my number if you want to give me a call.
 
#6 ·
Hi, hopefully you've gotten it started by now. I did have a similar situation with mine, (68 280se) and could not figure it out for the life of me. After checking backwards from battery connections, spark plugs starter motor, ignition, distributor cap and lines,...and everything being fine, I remembered I was reading something somewhere that said "not only do you need spark, but you need it at the right time." that's when I then remembered I was cleaning the interior of the distributor cap and had turned the rotor slightly. It's not common that it would be able to be turned manual by hand, but I went back and turned it a little to make the connection happen at a slightly different time then it was previously happening,...car turned over next time I turned the key.

I'm not a mechanic and I'm sure this is probably considered taboo, but it seemed like it that was the likely antidote, at least for my problem.

The distributor rotor under your distributor cap spins when you turn your key, it has a small terminal on the end that as it spins, it makes an individual connection with separate receiving terminals place around the inside of the distributor cap. These terminals are leads to the spark plug wires and eventually to the actual spark plugs. The spark needs to happen at the right time!

Good luck!! This is only for reference remember, consult with a mechanic before attempting anything.


Sent from my iPhone using AG Free
 
#7 ·
GANSTA: thanks for the advice, changed out the dizzy and rotor from Bursons..but with no luck :( .. this has really got me stumped.

Gross68: Thanks for the info I have noticed the rotor is in different places every time I open the dizzy will try and align it later today.
 
#9 ·
Ohk i've narrowed it down to the rotor and distributor alignment and timing.

After playing with the dizzy, rotor and leads she wanted to start more than ever but did not and in the process killed my battery again *%^#!!

If there is any links/pictures or advice on alignment and the process this would be much appreciated.
 
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