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Replacing broken plastic guide on window

13K views 19 replies 15 participants last post by  w126Sam 
#1 ·
The plastic guide that goes in the track to raise and lower the window broke, so I got a new one. How do I install it? do I have to remove the old post and put the new one in as a unit? If so how do I do that?

This is what I got

 
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#2 ·
This was a PITA project I did on one of my windows in the past. What you will need to do is use a dremel tool to burr our the pin that holds the plastic guide. The pin in the new plastic guide (the one pictured in the picture you provided) is supposed to go in through the window regulator arm and be riveted. This is the PITA part. I tried using JBWeld and letting it cure for 48 hours.. but it did nothing and did not hold. The best and easiest way is to go to your local hardware store and get a screw and nut that is of more or less the same size. Fit that in and you're done.
 
#14 ·
Easy to replace



Once you have the regulator out, replacing this piece takes about 15 min.
You can drill,grind ,or sand the broken piece out of the regulator assy.I use a small side grinder
Now find a small socket that fits the "unpeened" pin side , I think its a 10mm
using the socket to provide the backing on a flat work bench so you don't break the new part
using a hammer to "peen" the pin into the regulator assy,,, Make sure that you place the new part on the same side of the assy that the old one came off.
sequence on top of workbench , first the socket then the new part with the socket supporting the metal pin then the regulator assy with the metal pin facing up ,,now using a hammer , gently beat on the pin until it is flatten againist the regulator assy ,,, reassemble in door.
 
#6 ·
Some have gone to Lowes or Home Depot and purchased the small clevis pins(round head with holes through the shaft at intervals) and cut them off and used a clevis push pin clips through the hole in the shaft of the pin.
 
#8 ·
This gave me a great idea that I had forgot about. I got a "Chicago Screw" ( got the right length) from the hardware store, I ground the old rivet out with a dremel and then screwed this in and it worked perfectly.

 
#7 · (Edited)
I'm cheap and lazy so I just took a sheet rock knife (or other durable blade) and made a slice along the middle through the hole from the front to the back (front of car to back as it sits in the rail). It cracked easy so you don't really have to cut all the way, oh. also, I didn't cut both parts and I didn't cut one side that has a thin strip which helps to hold the piece together while you're working it onto the existing rivet. I only cut the part that goes on the existing rivet/whatever so I could slip that half (after disassembling the two halves) on, then get it to close around the rivet, add the other half (which I believe snaps back into place to hold the two rubber strips) and guide the part into the rail. Once it's in the rail, it should stay in together.

I suppose it's not the best thing to do, but it worked. My window went up and down a few times and I don't use it often. I suppose if I had more time I should have done what everyone above mentions about using Dremels, etc. I've seen a kit either on ebay or one of the mbz web sites. Comes with some kind of rivet replacement, but I don't know exactly how that works. Considering the part is about 8 bucks from the dealer, it probably wouldn't hurt to get two in case my technique isn't that great. I suppose you could even try a drop of krazy/super glue once you close the cut/crack, but maybe it's not worth the risk of gluing the metal to the plastic.
 
#11 ·
I have manufactured a replacement part (Patent Pending) machined from solid Delrin that eliminates the need for drilling out the pin. After door panel removal, It takes an average person 10 minutes to complete the repair!!! $115.99 each. Email Dcallevato@sbcglobal.net for further information and payment/shipping. Satisfaction Guaranteed!
First post and that is also for selling in high amount.

RED FLAG
 
#16 · (Edited)
Made my own guide

My 89 420SEL just had this problem.

I went to Home Depot and bought some nylon table/chair leg ends, some countersink type hex key bolts (#10 - 32 x 1"), nuts (3/8" flat and self-locking), and washers. Drilled out the nylon leg end and removed the nail, countersunk with a larger bit and sunk the bolt through it until the head was flush with the surface, then nutted it down tight. Next, I added a few washers as a spacer.

Used a Dremel to grind off the flat side of the stud from the guide, then attached my new assembly. Another washer and a self-locking nut complete the new installation.

Greased up the gear teeth, the slider, and the guide, and installed it. Total time (not counting the trip to the store) about 20 minutes. Total cost, including a can of marine wheel bearing grease, just over $25, and I have enough pieces to do all 8 windows on 2 cars.

Not sure how everyone else does it, but in removing the window motor, I found it easiest to de-pin the switch plug (took a picture of the wire arrangement with my cellphone camera - Ain't technology great?) and remove it all as an assembly. (Had to disconnect the glass guide. No big deal, unless you don't!)

I expect in another 20 years, it might need replacing again.

 
#17 ·
My 89 420SEL just had this problem.

I went to Home Depot and bought some nylon table/chair leg ends, some countersink type hex key bolts (#10 - 32 x 1"), nuts (3/8" flat and self-locking), and washers. Drilled out the nylon leg end and removed the nail, countersunk with a larger bit and sunk the bolt through it until the head was flush with the surface, then nutted it down tight. Next, I added a few washers as a spacer.

Used a Dremel to grind off the flat side of the stud from the guide, then attached my new assembly. Another washer and a self-locking nut complete the new installation.

Greased up the gear teeth, the slider, and the guide, and installed it. Total time (not counting the trip to the store) about 20 minutes. Total cost, including a can of marine wheel bearing grease, just over $25, and I have enough pieces to do all 8 windows on 2 cars.

Not sure how everyone else does it, but in removing the window motor, I found it easiest to de-pin the switch plug (took a picture of the wire arrangement with my cellphone camera - Ain't technology great?) and remove it all as an assembly. (Had to disconnect the glass guide. No big deal, unless you don't!)

I expect in another 20 years, it might need replacing again.

Final assembly picture will be great help.
It happened to my w124 a month back and put used one in there from ebay but still kept old part to fix someday.

Now it happened to driver's window on my w126.
 
#18 ·
Okay, I took pictures of another installation.

Start by grinding off the knob stud:


The window guide is about 1 1/8" wide, so your slider should be this size. I used a round piece of nylon, but you can use anything. The original sliders are rectangular. These are 1 1/8" in diameter and 1/4" thick. Not sure exactly what that is in metric. The hole doesn't have to be perfectly centered. These aren't going to roll. Countersink so the bolt head does not protrude.


Next, use a nut to hold the bolt tight. This keeps the bolt head from working out to contact the metal guide on the bottom of the window.


The hole on the arm will be slightly large. Not a problem. Better than being slightly too small! Three washers on top of the nut add enough space to give the correct clearance for the guide.


Save yourself the embarrassment of displaying your mistakes for all the internet to see.... Put the knob on the correct side of the arm, add a washer and a self-locking nut. You don't want it to work loose.


It should look like this, except that yours should be on the correct side of the arm.


A little grease on the moving parts. You shouldn't need to lubricate nylon, but it can't hurt, and these old metal parts with their corrosion from being near the beach would probably wear even good plastic. You'll notice that the slider is now correctly positioned.
Also, the bolt is slightly too long. You can probably use a 3/4" or 13/16" and eliminate all the loose threads. It doesn't interfere with anything in the door, but I don't really like having things sticking out of moving parts any more than necessary.


So far, it works great. Maybe in a few years I'll remember to come back and give an update.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Just replaced the passenger side front window motor. The old one was bent and the gear teeth ground off.

The one from my wrecked car had (Guess what?) a broken slider. I replaced it with one of these homemade jobs, and it went right in.

Unfortunately someone had been in here before, and for some reason had drilled out the holes in the door where the mounting studs come through for mounting. A couple washers took care of it fair enough, but what are some people thinking?

A bit of advice on this job: Take off the speaker. The extra 3 minutes is worth the easy access. Also, don't let the window bottom out. There is a rail guide in the bottom slider of the window, and it will come off the rail. A roll of towels or a baseball or something in the bottom will keep the window from going down too far; just be sure you can get it out after the assembly is installed.
 
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