Hello Skylaw, the brass valve's angle definitely makes one think "if it is pressed down, it may break at the thread point", and I can see why the mastic (original black resin/sealant) may have the intention of "holding" and dampening the brass valve. However, the amount of thread the valve has, in screwing into the hole on the top part of the strut, makes it pretty solid anyway - and probably why the repair kit for the metal cap leak doesn't call for new mastic (shops leave everything open). Also, given that the top horizontal half of the valve sits above the mastic, I think that the mastic really doesn't do any real damping or holding of the brass valve. The mastic is very hard, relatively weak and brittle, so any vibrations will surely make it crack (!).
From the removal of my passenger side mastic, I do notice that it does act as a sealant, even if it is not intended as such, and I am considering doing the same removal of mastic and testing (and resealing with multi-metal epoxy) of my driver's side front strut - which currently doesn't show leaks, but does show a few cracks in the works. I will be sure the record on video that second "fix", and I theorize that the removal of the mastic on the strut that currently does not show leaks, will actually leak, and probably through the same place as my passenger's side - in between the gap of the steel ring that holds the original steel cap. I realize that I will be "fixing" something that is not broken (yet), but I want to avoid having to stop and restart the car to reinflate the struts when i am going somewhere in a hurry.
By the way, the epoxy I was recommended at the hardware store (Canadian Tire) by an "off-duty" mechanic was the PermaPoxy-multi-metal-4min stick (more info from their web site):
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...poxy_Stick.htm
Permatex® PermaPoxy™ 4 Minute Multi-Metal Epoxy Stick
This two part, hand kneadable, putty type epoxy has contrasting colored materials that are mixed together to form a uniform color to indicate thorough mixing. Eliminates the need for welding or brazing. Holds in four minutes, useable in 30 minutes. Dark grey appearance. Temperature range -40°F to 350°F (-40°C to 176°C). When cured, can be drilled, sanded, threaded or filed. Resistant to fuels and solvents after full cure. Permanent strength up to 3500 PSI.
Suggested Applications: Bonds rigid materials including aluminum, brass, chrome, copper, iron, stainless steel, steel; cracked transmission cases, chipped heads, rear end castings, cracked blocks, cracked intake manifolds, damaged keyways, split stampings
It is interesting to note that this stuff is recommended for sealing cracked blocks, castings, etc, which is subjected to high temps and pressures. This experiment may prove useful, since I believe that if the surfaces are properly cleaned, the applied multi-metal epoxy when fully cured is actually above specs of the original factory install, or the fix kit. If I am wrong (it is possible!) I'll be the first one to admit that I need the $120 kit for each side, plus the special tool - and will get that done and recorded for the forum.
