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Originally Posted by benz rider  sounds like a repeat of what I've been saying all along. |
Not quite. I have yet to be even slightly comfortable with your level of paint correction knowledge. This is the main tool of a detailer, anything short definitely isn't worth payment, as most everything else is not specialized knowledge like paint correction is. The fact is, 90% of vehicles coming into a detailer are going to require some level of paint correction. This does not mean it needs to be done every two weeks, but the initial work done by a detailer can be retained with relative ease (as with my BMW) if it is maintained properly.
IMO, I think you are confusing a maintained surface and an unmaintained surface. Pre-detailed or OEM and a surface in dire need of help. I have yet to hear from you your ability to discern a true polished surface from a swirled surface. People hire a detailer to make their vehicle look perfect, and what you are doing almost classifies and maintaining the finish, but that of course was nullified when you explained your clay procedures, among other things IF the surface was not in need of polishing, and you followed your clay procedures, it would indeed need to be polished, as swirls would be incurred. You would be unknowingly damaging the paint - and if you get caught, you're getting sued. I'm not being mean, this is the truth.
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Originally Posted by benz rider Here's my procedure with claying:
IF the car is pretty clean(upon sight), I'll just spray the car off with hose water all around to knock off any loose dirt, etc..and then clay the areas where I see the most visible contaminants. then run the water hose on low and run my hands over the car to try and detect more sticky dirt, etc. then clay those areas. then go into actually "washing" the car. Currently I'm using California Gold.
IF the vehicle is covered is mud, dirt, etc. washing is the most logical step prior to claying the vehicle so I can see what's left to work on.
hopes this helps. |
There are two problems that appear right off the bat.
Dry contaminants such as bird poop, or greasy and dry contaminants with dirt/dust in them as well. These will not be washed off by water, but even the most gentle car soaps will remove them. Otherwise, these are going to build up between the clay and the finish, regardless of how much lubricant is put on the surface.
Also, loose, invisible contaminants are even even larger threat, and will not wash of with water, but must be agitated even for the cleanest looking vehicles. These will cause severe damage to the finish, and swirls will occur. Maybe you cannot see them, but they are there, particularly under a halogen or in the reflection of direct sunlight.
So, I still have not received the detailed explanation of claying a vehicle, you just said, "then clay the areas where I see the most visible contaminants" I'd like to know specifically how you go about that, I didn't meant to be unclear in my question.
It's great you are using California Gold, but the QD should be mentioned - as it's MUCH more important of a factor than the shampoo you're using. Let alone the actual clay bar.