The reason it is dangerous is simple. The clay will become loaded, and dirt will no longer be safely 'cushioned between the maleable clay and the paint in the lubricant. This layer will become filled with dirt that is NOT embedded in the paint, and since it loads up so fast, the lubricant is no longer effective - so the dirt and contaminants are rubbing directly on the finish, causing marring and strong scratches.
May I ask for your detailed description of your claying procedure Benz Rider?
Quote:
Originally Posted by benz rider
You will pick up contaminents whether you wash, rinse or not prior to using the clay bar. the clay id designed to "pick up" contaminents with it's sticky characteristics used in conjunction with the spray liquid that comes with the clay bar. that's why they tell you to continue to fold it over and "kneed" the clay to continue to have a fresh side of clay to work with. I'm not against washing or rinsing first before claying at all, I rinse off first regardless, but if the car is pretty clean to begin with I don't see the need for an all out washing. claying to me is for "spot duty". get the bug juice, tar, brake dust on lower panels, and other obvious things hanging off the paint. I don't use my clay bar like a towel and wipe down the whole car. that's petty because every inch of the car is not covered with 'sticky' contaminents. you mainly find these particles on the front end of the car, hood, front fenders, etc... that get the most wind and bugs.
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So, you're saying that washing and claying do the exact same thing? A clay bar is specifically designed to be used after washing to remove some debris that washing could not remove, called embedded contaminants. That is why you MUST wash first for this to be effective because the loose dirt, eve if you cannot see it, builds up. The procedure you have explained has never been used, and I've never even heard of any myths even remotely referring to this... Even the packaging of various claybar products defy your explanation. It is dangerous. Embedded vs free contaminants, that's the bottom line.
What is "the liquid that comes with the clay bar" you are referring to? I'd like to hear what you use and how you use it, and this is also referring to my question earlier about your exact procedures. It would be helpful to hear that whole process, in detail. Thx
Anyways,
I don't know who you talk to about polishing, but I did a single full compound with Menzerna Powergloss, Super intensive Polish, and then Nano Polish - all on my own BMW last summer. I haven't touched it since then, and I still have a nearly perfect finish (even under halogens) because I wax/seal it every 4 months on average, which isn't expensive at all. (All I'd need to do to repair any imperfections that may occur now is use a light polish like FP or another pass of nano with the rotary) The reason it got so bad is the PO never waxed it before I purchased it.
Really, if you do things right, you don't have to polish all the time, this is true. BUT, if the car has never been waxed or polished, it's unlikely if the car is over 5 years or even 3 years old that it will be clear of noticeable residue that even the amateur can distinguish. Although, it is up to the detailer/client decision regarding what action to take, but what is mandatory after a polish is a seal of some kind. This is the one factor that determines a freshly polished paint job that stays clear or not, and I must emphasize that this shouldn't be done every week, but about once every 4-6 months depending on climate product etc...
Yet, without wax, the cars finish is not slick, it has a low surface tension. This allows for anything to stick to it and remain. Whether it be mineral deposits, tree sap (Fkin worst, especially if it ages and completely dries
) But with practically any type of paint protectant even SLIGHTLY present, it will repel and make these contaminants that much easier to remove, most of they time they just "pop" right off, because the bond to the paint isn't nearly as strong as it would have been on a bare surface. That's no understatement, it's hell on earth to remove some contaminants that have stained, etched, etc...
Overall, no need to polish and wax every week, just keep a small layer of protection, and you'll be good to go. (Heck, I didn't even waxd my car for 6 months during the crazy Oregon winter weather, which isn't even close to being a joke BTW, it's serious weather. I think I even waited 4 months to wash the thing. Yes, I got lazy and preoccupied with school, but my LSP prevailed.)