Hello Jon,
I live in Redmond Oregon (Outside of Bend OR) and fortunately it isn't pool weather here yet. There is always something broken on our above ground pool every year but fortunately I have a week or two before I have to figure out what the problem and expense will be this year.
My first IAC valve was a 5 foot piece of vinyl tubing, a plastic barbed T fitting and a 1/2" ball valve that sat in the passenger compartment with me. They were all extra parts I had lying around. I adjusted the ballvalve by hand while I was trying to get the engine to turn over and stay running for the first time.
(Truthfully the ball valve was a later refinement for my first trip around the block as I just put my thumb over the tubing the first time I got the engine to stay running to lower the idle RPM.
)
Basically my approach was to rig things to get the engine running then come back to figure out the finer points of the engineering later. By taking this approach I could get my engine running without worrying about wether my IAC solution was working and I was able to get my IAC working without worrying about whether the rest of the engine was running smoothly or not. I tried to isolate the variables and work on one problem at a time instead of trying to get everything to work together the first turn of the ignition key. Kind of like not doing the fuel and timing at the same time.
I still don't have an airfilter solution yet.
My intake has two ports on it for Idle control. Both of these fed through tubing from the mechanically tempature controlled IAC valve and an extra small aluminum manifold that also carried the cold start injector for my CIS system. I am still using this stock idle controll system with the cold start injector still in there but disconnected from fuel.
P.S. Cool aquisition of the fuel injector pocket reamer. I found out about them after I built my rail and wish I had one. They are spendy but I am sure it will be worth it!
